Unmapped Gems
A BrasileiraA Brasileira, Lisbon

A Brasileira

Best time
A bica at the counter, early in the morning
Getting there
On Rua Garrett in Chiado, by the Baixa-Chiado metro station

Why it’s in the log

A Brasileira opened in 1905 as a shop importing and selling Brazilian coffee — hence the name — and became one of the oldest and best-known cafés in Lisbon's old quarter. In the 1920s it was where the city's intellectuals, artists and writers met, and Fernando Pessoa was one of them.

He is still here: a bronze statue of Pessoa sits at a table beside the terrace.

The terrace is the tourist end of things. For the café as it was meant to be used, stand at the counter inside and order a bica, Lisbon's espresso.