CityBest March – May, October – November
Kyoto
The temples get the crowds; the obanzai kitchens two streets over get the regulars.
Shimogyo Ward, south of the main sightseeing loop around Gion and the eastern temples, is where machiya townhouses turn into home-style obanzai kitchens instead of gift shops. Walk the narrow lanes off Bukkoji or Matsubara-dori rather than sticking to the main shopping arcades.
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Restaurant4.7(1,623)
Nakashimaya
Kyoto, JapanHome-style obanzai cooking in a Kyoto machiya lane, running since 1958.
Restaurant4.6(661)
Tuzuri
Kyoto, JapanAn obanzai restaurant in a quiet Shimogyo backstreet, built around whatever's in season.
Country
Japan
The famous stops book out months ahead; the counters that actually feed the neighbourhood mostly don't take reservations at all.