Unmapped Gems
CityBest March – May, October – November

Tokyo

Shimokitazawa's back streets hold more good counters than the guidebook districts ever will.

Shimokitazawa, southwest of Shibuya, still runs on tiny bars and secondhand shops rather than department stores — it's the neighbourhood to walk at night if the counters around Shinjuku and Ginza feel staged. Meguro, a few stops further out, has kept old-school specialists running for decades, tonkatsu counters included.