Unmapped Gems
Ye Olde Cheshire CheeseYe Olde Cheshire Cheese, London

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

Best time
Any hour — there is almost no natural light to lose
Getting there
Down Wine Office Court, an alley off Fleet Street that is easy to walk straight past

Why it’s in the log

The Cheese is one of the few on Fleet Street whose advertised date and actual date agree: it was rebuilt immediately after the Great Fire of 1666, and the warren of low, dark, sawdust-floored rooms you walk into is that building. It is Grade II listed and on CAMRA's National Inventory of Historic Pub Interiors — the register that matters, because it lists interiors that genuinely survive rather than ones that merely look old.

It is also where London's most repeated pub legend was manufactured. The pub trades hard on Samuel Johnson, whose house stands round the corner at 17 Gough Square, and there is no record of Johnson ever setting foot in it. The association traces to a Johnson Club supper on 13 December 1892, where a former MP remarked that Johnson, walking down Fleet Street, must have called in. That suggestion has been reprinted as fact ever since. Johnson's circle — Reynolds, Gibbon, Garrick, Boswell — genuinely did drink here, which is the part nobody puts on the sign.

Dickens, Chesterton and Mark Twain are better attested. Ask about the cellars: they are vaulted, older than the pub above them, and said to have belonged to a thirteenth-century Carmelite monastery on the site.