Unmapped Gems
CityBest March – May, October – November

Osaka

Okonomiyaki is cooked in front of you everywhere here — the difference is who's actually eating it alongside you.

Nishinari, in the city's south, is a working-class district the Dotonbori crowds skip entirely — which is exactly why its okonomiyaki canteens still cook the way they always have. Chuo Ward, around Dotonbori itself, has its share of tourist-facing chains, but a few counters just off the main strip still cook mostly for regulars.