Osaka
Okonomiyaki is cooked in front of you everywhere here — the difference is who's actually eating it alongside you.
Nishinari, in the city's south, is a working-class district the Dotonbori crowds skip entirely — which is exactly why its okonomiyaki canteens still cook the way they always have. Chuo Ward, around Dotonbori itself, has its share of tourist-facing chains, but a few counters just off the main strip still cook mostly for regulars.
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Chitose
Osaka, JapanA Nishinari neighbourhood canteen cooking thick Osaka-style okonomiyaki on the hotplate in front of you.
Nagataya
Hiroshima, JapanHiroshima-style okonomiyaki, cabbage and noodles layered rather than mixed, griddled at the counter.
Okonomiyaki Izakaya Gen
Osaka, JapanOkonomiyaki cooked at your seat alongside a full izakaya menu, just off Dotonbori.
Hiroshima
Its own style of okonomiyaki, layered rather than mixed, and worth learning to order properly.