United Arab Emirates
Skip the skyline and the old trading quarters still have wind towers, courtyards, and food that predates the malls.
The heat makes the choice for you — outdoor courtyards and beach shacks only really work from November to March, and most of the country plans around it. Ramadan timing shifts every year and changes hours everywhere, worth checking before a trip.
Places in United Arab Emirates
Abu Dhabi
The capital's own old quarter is smaller and quieter than Dubai's, built around the fort at its center rather than a strip of towers.
Al Ain
The UAE's inland oasis city, greener and slower than the coast, built around date palm groves and old forts.
Dubai
The old coral-stone lanes of Al Fahidi sit a ten-minute walk from the world's tallest building and get a fraction of the visitors.
Sharjah
The UAE's cultural capital, with a heritage district restored building by building rather than rebuilt from scratch.
Logged in United Arab Emirates
Al Dhafra Restaurant
Abu Dhabi, United Arab EmiratesAn old-school seafood house on the Abu Dhabi corniche, piling grilled catch and rice onto tables for local families.
Al Fanar Restaurant & Cafe
Al Ain, United Arab EmiratesA traditional Emirati café near Souq Al Zafarana serving breakfast, Arabic coffee, and simple local dishes all morning.
Al Mohamadiya Cafeteria
Sharjah, United Arab EmiratesA tiny neighbourhood cafeteria in Al Shuwaiheen, barely reviewed, known locally for its Chips Oman sandwich.
Al Mrzab Traditional Restaurant
Abu Dhabi, United Arab EmiratesA traditional Emirati restaurant behind the National Theatre serving simple Bedouin-style home cooking.
Al Ustad Special Kebab
Dubai, United Arab EmiratesA decades-old Iranian kebab house down a Deira side street, still mostly full of regulars rather than visitors.
Arabian Tea House Restaurant & Cafe
Dubai, United Arab EmiratesA wind-tower courtyard café in Al Fahidi serving Emirati breakfast and tea in a restored coral-stone house.
Bu Qtair Restaurant
Dubai, United Arab EmiratesA bare-bones fishermen's-hut seafood grill on the Umm Suqeim beach, eaten at plastic tables by the water.
Erth Restaurant
Abu Dhabi, United Arab EmiratesA contemporary Emirati restaurant built into a restored building inside Qasr Al Hosn's historic walls.
Local House Restaurant
Dubai, United Arab EmiratesA home-style Emirati and Gulf restaurant tucked into Al Fahidi's old coral lanes, away from the tourist strip.
The Chedi Al Bait
Sharjah, United Arab EmiratesA restored heritage manor-house hotel inside Heart of Sharjah, its wind towers and courtyards shading the old town.