Dubai
The old coral-stone lanes of Al Fahidi sit a ten-minute walk from the world's tallest building and get a fraction of the visitors.
Al Fahidi (Bastakiya) is the pre-oil city still standing — wind-tower architecture, narrow shaded alleys, restored merchant houses now holding small museums and a handful of Emirati restaurants. Deira, across the creek, is louder and less polished, and still where a lot of the city actually eats.
Logged in Dubai
Al Ustad Special Kebab
Dubai, United Arab EmiratesA decades-old Iranian kebab house down a Deira side street, still mostly full of regulars rather than visitors.
Arabian Tea House Restaurant & Cafe
Dubai, United Arab EmiratesA wind-tower courtyard café in Al Fahidi serving Emirati breakfast and tea in a restored coral-stone house.
Bu Qtair Restaurant
Dubai, United Arab EmiratesA bare-bones fishermen's-hut seafood grill on the Umm Suqeim beach, eaten at plastic tables by the water.
Local House Restaurant
Dubai, United Arab EmiratesA home-style Emirati and Gulf restaurant tucked into Al Fahidi's old coral lanes, away from the tourist strip.
Where to stay in Dubai
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Al Fanar Restaurant & Cafe
Al Ain, United Arab EmiratesA traditional Emirati café near Souq Al Zafarana serving breakfast, Arabic coffee, and simple local dishes all morning.
Al Ustad Special Kebab
Dubai, United Arab EmiratesA decades-old Iranian kebab house down a Deira side street, still mostly full of regulars rather than visitors.
Bu Qtair Restaurant
Dubai, United Arab EmiratesA bare-bones fishermen's-hut seafood grill on the Umm Suqeim beach, eaten at plastic tables by the water.
Al Ain
The UAE's inland oasis city, greener and slower than the coast, built around date palm groves and old forts.