Oaxaca
Seven moles, a market that smells of chocolate and chillies, and mezcal from people who will show you the still.
Oaxaca is the food capital of Mexico and knows it, which means the centre now has the restaurants to prove it. The version worth flying for is still in the comedores and the market stalls, mostly before noon.

Logged in Oaxaca
Archivo Maguey - Mezcalería
Oaxaca, MexicoA mezcal archive with a serious kitchen attached, serving contemporary Oaxacan plates alongside rare bottles.
Hotel Los Amantes
Oaxaca, MexicoAn art-curated boutique hotel in Centro, named for Oaxacan lovers — and their mezcal.
La Cueva
Oaxaca, MexicoA former wine bar on Hidalgo street reborn as a candlelit cocktail and mezcal den.
Sobrio by Mezcal Speakeasy
Oaxaca, MexicoA speakeasy behind an unmarked door in Centro, pouring small-batch mezcal to a mostly local crowd.
Where to stay in Oaxaca
Stays shown via Stay22 — booking through the map supports the log.
Part of

The Best Cities for Winter Sun
Ten places at their best between November and March, none of them a beach resort — and one at the bottom of the world where December is summer.

The Best Places to Spend Christmas
Ten places that do Christmas their own way — a peace declared from a balcony since the Middle Ages, radishes carved into nativity scenes, and fried chicken booked weeks ahead in Tokyo.

Halloween, Locally Observed
Eleven cities where the end of October is a real local custom rather than an imported one — a fire festival on Calton Hill, a cemetery vigil that runs all night, and ossuaries in Naples, Palermo and Paris you can walk through any week of the year.