Morocco
Four imperial cities, and the trick is to get lost in the right one.
Places in Morocco
Casablanca
Morocco's business capital, more Art Deco than postcard medina, anchored by the Hassan II Mosque on the Atlantic.
Chefchaouen
A mountain town painted blue from the ground up, best seen early before the day-trip buses from Fes and Tangier arrive.
Essaouira
A walled Atlantic port with blue fishing boats, fresh grilled sardines, and wind strong enough to have its own reputation.
Fes
The oldest of the imperial cities, and the medina where a GPS pin still won't get you there.
Marrakech
Rooftops, dyers' courtyards and a medina that is quiet if you let it be.
Tangier
The strait-side city that drew spies and writers for decades, now a ferry ride from Spain and shaking off its old reputation.
Logged in Morocco
Amal Center
Marrakech, MoroccoA Guéliz restaurant and training kitchen where every meal helps fund and train local women for kitchen work.
Dar Roumana
Fes, MoroccoA converted medina palace with a candlelit rooftop and modern Moroccan cooking, a step up from the standard riad dinner.
El Morocco Club
Tangier, MoroccoA 1950s salon of vintage brass and zellige tile in the Marshan district, once a haunt of Tangier's artists and spies.
Henna Art Cafe
Marrakech, MoroccoA rooftop café and small garden above the souk, mint tea and henna application done by hand.
Le Jardin des Biehn
Fes, MoroccoA riad garden café in the Fes medina, homemade lunch served under old orange trees.
Maqam
Casablanca, MoroccoAn intimate riad-style restaurant near the Hassan II Mosque, classic Moroccan plates in a quiet, old-world room.
Restaurant Khmissa
Essaouira, MoroccoA family-run kitchen near Essaouira's fishing port, known for a slow-cooked fish casserole.
Riad Al Moussika
Marrakech, MoroccoA restored 19th-century mansion turned intimate riad in the Riad Zitoun quarter, built around an open courtyard.
Umia
Essaouira, MoroccoAn elegant rooftop in the Essaouira medina with Atlantic views and Moroccan-French cooking.