The Best Hotels That Used to Be Something Else
Ten places to sleep in buildings built for another life — cave houses in Cappadocia, a Moorish fortress above Carmona, a Kanazawa merchant's townhouse and three Washington rowhouses knocked into one.
A hotel built to look old is a set. These ten were built as something else — homes, mostly, and one fortress — and became places to stay later, which is why the walls, floors and rooms are shaped the way they are. None of them is a former palace; those have a collection of their own.
The oldest is a castle. The Parador de Carmona occupies a 14th-century Moorish fortress on the hill above Carmona, with vaulted stone courtyards looking over the plain, twenty minutes from Seville. In Uçhisar, Les Maisons de Cappadoce are real cave houses — some cut straight into the rock — that the French architect Jacques Avizou began buying up abandoned in the 1990s and spent more than twenty years restoring, with a kitchen in nearly every one.
Then the townhouses and mansions. Ainotsuji Machiya is a restored wooden machiya in Kanazawa's old merchant quarter, a few tatami rooms in a neighbourhood that kept its old street plan. Riad Al Moussika in Marrakech is a 19th-century mansion that belonged to a Marrakech aristocrat, rooms opening onto its central courtyard rather than a corridor. The Chedi Al Bait in Sharjah is a cluster of restored courtyard houses, wind towers and coral-stone walls still doing the cooling they always did. Rastrello is a medieval palazzo inside the walls of Panicale, above Lake Trasimeno in Umbria, and Voltes Residences a stone house inside the medieval walls of Mesta on Chios.
The Tabard Inn in Washington was made in 1922 by knocking three Victorian rowhouses on N Street together — and it has run as a hotel ever since, the oldest in the city still operating continuously.
Finland closes with two country houses. Tertti Manor, outside Mikkeli, is a working farmhouse turned hotel with six rooms and a kitchen that grows much of its own produce. Haikko Manor is a 19th-century manor house in a waterside park just outside Porvoo, now a hotel and spa.
Les Maisons de Cappadoce
Uçhisar, TurkeyCave houses in Uçhisar restored over two decades by a French architect, with a kitchen in nearly every one.
Parador de Carmona
Carmona, SpainA 14th-century Moorish fortress converted into a hotel, its vaulted stone courtyards looking out over the Carmona plain.
Ainotsuji Machiya
Kanazawa, JapanA restored machiya townhouse stay in Kanazawa's old merchant quarter, a handful of tatami rooms.
Riad Al Moussika
Marrakech, MoroccoA restored 19th-century mansion turned intimate riad in the Riad Zitoun quarter, built around an open courtyard.
The Chedi Al Bait
Sharjah, United Arab EmiratesA restored heritage manor-house hotel inside Heart of Sharjah, its wind towers and courtyards shading the old town.
Rastrello Boutique Hotel
Panicale, ItalyA restored medieval palazzo hotel above Lake Trasimeno, inside the walls of the Umbrian hill town of Panicale.
Voltes Residences
Mesta, GreeceA restored stone house inside Mesta's medieval walls, run by a host reviewers name by name.
Tabard Inn
Washington DC, United StatesWashington's oldest continuously operating hotel, a 1922 brick rowhouse inn in Dupont Circle with a fireplace restaurant that draws its own quiet local following.
Tertti Manor
Mikkeli, FinlandA historic lakeside farmhouse hotel and restaurant growing its own produce, six rustic rooms outside Mikkeli.
Hotel Haikko Manor & Spa
Porvoo, FinlandA grand manor-house hotel, spa and restaurant in Porvoo's leafy waterside park.